I opted to install the crank gear at the zero timing mark, but this gear allows adjustment +/- 4 degrees.

Our timing chain setup installed.

With No. 1 rod pin at TDC, the timing dot on the cam gear is at 6 o'clock, and the ) mark on the crank gear is at 12 o'clock. Notice the @2 o'clock position of the crank snout key.

A GM timing chain damper installs with two 8mm bolts.

The chain damper serves as a rub-block to reduce chain harmonics.

The timing chain setup included an oil pump drive adapter gear. This wide-toothed gear inserts into the oil pump's drive gear. The key slot in the adapter engages to the crank's key.

Because of the thickness of the Scoggin-Dickey timing chain setup, two spacer plates must be installed between the block and oil pump for chain clearance. Be sure to apply sealant to both sides of the block-left spacer.

The oil control plunger installs at the lower left of the block with the O-ring end facing the rear of the block.

Here the oil plunger is fully installed flush with the block.

The rear engine cover requires a metal gasket with a pre-applied sealant bead. We used the gasket from the MAHLE Victor gasket set.

The rear cover is first lightly positioned with the rear seal properly seated onto the crank flange. I rotated the crank a bit to make sure that the sealing surface was concentric.

Before fully tightening the rear cover bolts, I also placed a straightedge across the bottom of the cover and the adjacent pan rails to make sure that the plate was positioned correctly. The ARP 12-point stainless bolts were then tightened to 18 lbs./ft.

During my file-fitting checks of the top and second piston rings, I used Summit Racing's ring squaring tool. This little guy is an anodized aluminum piece that's adjustable for bore diameter. A lower flange pushes the ring into the bore about a half-inch and allows you to achieve ring squareness in a heartbeat.

I file-fitted our rings using Summit Racing's diamond-wheel ring filer. This is a very fast little grinder that gets the job done quickly while achieving a square cut. After file-fitting, I simply deburred the freshly ground edges with a small file.

Here our rods, caps, bearings, pistons, pins and rings are organized on our Lista benchtop. Notice the cool towel holder? That's Goodson's 300-MPH towel holder, made using aluminum rods that were actually used in Top Fuel engines. The little race slicks even feature the Goodson name. I couldn't resist.

Our rod caps were test-torqued and loosened on our GearHead Tools rod vise.

Once the rod bolts were backed off, I split the caps off using GearHead Tools' rod splitter. This beats the heck out of holding a rod upside-down and tapping the bolt heads with a mallet.