DART 427W PART 5

Our build is done. See the end of this article for several tasty photos of the finished engine, followed by a complete list of the participating manufacturers.

FINAL ASSEMBLY OF OUR

NASTY LITTLE DART 427W

 

OUR ONE TRICK PONY IS DONE.

WE’RE READY FOR THE DYNO RUN.

 

Engine build, text and photos by Mike Mavrigian

 

INTAKE MANIFOLD

Since our Trick Flow heads feature taller-than-stock intake ports, I port-matched the manifold ports (only at the roof areas) to match the height of the head ports. FYI: the Trick Flow intake ports measure 2.24” high x 1.375” wide. The Professional Products Hurricane intake manifold’s ports measured approximately 1.870” high x 1.120” wide. In order to take advantage of the increased cylinder head port size,  I needed to port-match the intake manifold’s ports.


Professional Products' smallblock Ford intake manifold is available in natural and polished versions (polished seen here).

 


The rear of the manifold features a crossover coolant passage to improve temperature equalization between the heads. Convenient bosses are featured just in case ssomeone wants to add direct fuel injection or nitrous injection.

 


The manifold features stock-size ports. However, in order to achieve port matching to our Trick Flow heads' taller ports, the manifold ports require enlarging.

 


Since our intake gaskets provided a very nice match to our cylinder head intake ports, I simply used the gaskets as a template on the manifold. Here you see the outlines of the areas that required material removal.

 


The port on the right has been rough-cut to the approximate dimensions. I first rough-cut all ports using a cutting bit suitable for aluminum, followed by finish-shaping with abrasive rolls (on a die grinder tool) and a 3/8" mini belt sander tool. I finished by smoothing all surfaces with fine-grit abrasive rolls. It's not necessary to polish the surfaces...you simply need to achieve a uniformly smooth surface.  

  Because of the taller-than-stock intake port dimension, Trick Flow recommends intake gaskets from Fel Pro, P/N 1262R. I first checked gasket fit at the cylinder head decks and ports (very good fit), and then used the gaskets on the intake manifold as a template to determine what areas needed to be relieved (and marked these areas with a felt-tip pen).  I started removing aluminum from the roofs of the manifold ports with 80-grit belts on a 3/8” mini belt sander and a selection of 180-grit abrasive “tootsie rolls,” followed with 240-grit belts and 320 grit rolls, finishing with 400-grit rolls. After washing and rinsing the manifold, I carefully cleaned the manifold and head decks and front and rear rails. I then applied body masking tape to the exposed surfaces of front and rear rail areas of both the manifold and block.  I then lightly installed four 5/16” x 18 studs at the outer four corners of the cylinder head manifold bolt holes (to use as guides). I applied a light gasket adhesive to the head-side of the manifold gaskets and placed the gaskets to the heads.


Instead of using end-rail gaskets, I applied a bead of RTV at the rails. In order to avoid making a mess (smearing excess on the exposed surfaces), I first apply body masking tape to both the intake manifold and the block. Once the manifold is paid in place and with bolts tightened to specification, I then carefully wipe the excess RTV away with my finger. Once the masking tape is removed, the result is a clean smooth appearance with no excess to then clean off.

  I then applied a bead of Valco aluminum RTV to the front and rear block rails, with a extra dab in each corner. I then carefully lowered the manifold onto the head (using the studs as guides). After coating the ARP stainless steel manifold bolt threads with Teflon pipe compound (some bolt holes are open to the lifter valley), all bolts (with washers) were hand-installed (the temporary studs were removed and replaced with bolts). The intake manifold bolts were then tightened in three steps: all to a value of 10 ft-lbs, then all to a value of 15 ft-lbs, and finally, the center eight bolts to 25 ft-lbs (this is per Professional Products’ 351W manifold instructions). The recommended tightening sequence was followed during each step. While the rail-area RTV was still wet, excess RTV that protruded out from the rail areas was carefully wiped off with a finger. Then the masking tape was carefully removed. This results in a clean, mess-free RTV appearance, since the masking tape protected the manifold and block from RTV smearing.

VALVE COVERS

Our polished cast aluminum valve covers from Moroso were beautiful straight out of the box. However, since I wanted to balance the visual statement with our smoothed-out and custom painted titanium-silver block and black Moroso oil pan, I decided to customize the valve covers from an appearance standpoint. After boring a 1.250” diameter hole in each valve cover (one for a breather/oil-fill location and one for a PCV valve), I delivered the covers to my favorite (and nearby) custom powdercoating shop, Greber Powder Coating in Elyria, Ohio, where the covers were treated to a satin-black wrinkle powdercoat finish.


The Moroso polished cast aluminum valve covers are very nice out of the box and are certainly ready to install.


Since I wanted to color-balance the engine to coordinate with the titanium silver block and black oil pan, I had the valve covers powdercoated in satin wrinkle black by Greber Powdercoating. I then shipped the valve covers to Innovators West for custom engraving and coloring.  This provides the bold visual statement that I wanted.

 


Innovators West CNC engraves images onto valve covers, then adds colors per the customer's wishes. These guys do excellent work, and can engrave/color just about anything you want, from simple to complex.

 


A little note to let folks know who built the engine. The build was performed by Mike Mavrigian's Birchwood Automotive Group shop in Creston, OH. It's always a good idea for any engine builder to place a credit on the valve covers to help promote their shop.

As usual, Greber’s did an outstanding job. If you ever want a top-quality powdercoat on any item, Greber’s is the place to go. Seriously, these guys offer an incredible array of colors and effects (over 2500 from which to choose). Basically, if you can imagine it, they can probably do it (flat, satin, gloss, virtually any color, smooth, wrinkle, pebble finish, chromelike finish, translucent colors, etc.). They also perform powder coating the way it should be done. They first prep the part (lightly abrading the surface for coating adhesion, unless the part is already surface-prepped), then they pre-bake the part in their oven, which removes any residual fingerprint oils and other surface contaminants. Then the part is removed from the oven and while still warm, the electrostatic charge is applied and the powdercoat paint is applied. This allows better adhesion and allows the powder paint to work into small nooks & crannies much more effectively. The part is then placed in the oven and baked for curing. Greber has been doing all of my powdercoating for a few years now, and they’ve never disappointed me. Unlike some shops I’ve used that offer powdercoating services, Greber’s level of attention and skill is at the highest level. They’re very talented car guys who understand that their customers desire perfection. Their oven is big enough to bake vehicle frames (they routinely coat sprint car chassis), so they can easily handle items from small to large. Their quality simply can’t be beat. If you want something powdercoated, call them and talk to Ken Greber. He’ll hook you up with exactly what you want. Once the valve covers were powdercoated, I shipped them off to my good buddy Art Carlton at Innovator’s West in Hutchinson, Kansas for CNC engraving. For this job, I decided to create a simple “427W” at the center roof area of each cover, bordered at the top and bottom by a 1/8” wide horizontal rule. Art engraved the type and rules and finished by adding the colors. The 427W was then colored in red, with the top rule in white and the bottom rule in blue. Art specializes in engraving and coloring aluminum valve covers, and he’ll pretty much do whatever your heart desires. The engraving is accomplished by CNC milling. Art then fills the engraved areas with color, a procedure he keeps as a bit of a secret. He’s a true artist, and his turnaround time is quick. Art has engraved and colored a number of valve covers for me. The nice thing about dealing with him is that you don’t need to baby-sit the job. He “gets it,” and understands what you’re after. He custom engraves logos for Sonny’s and other big-time engine builders and pro race teams, so he’s the go-to guy for customizing valve covers for any racing or streetrod application. As long as he has a flat aluminum surface to work with, you’re covered (I’ve even had him engrave custom-fabricated rocker trim panels and custom aluminum steering wheel center buttons). As a courtesy to our readers, here is the contact info for Greber Powdercoating and Innovators West (also included in the manufacturer directory at the end of this article): Greber Custom Powdercoating 313 Clark St. Elyria,OH 44035-6105 440-322-3685 Innovator’s West 1800 East 4th Ave. Hutchinson, KS 67501 800-816-2393

FUEL SYSTEM

For this build, I decided to go with a wet EFI system. I chose Professional Products’ way-cool Powerjection III system, which features a throttle body that looks like a pro-level competition 4-barrel carburetor. This is ideal for a builder who wants to maintain a “traditional” carb look, while taking advantage of the precision offered by electronic fuel injection.  


Professional Products' Projection III system includes the throttle body (equipped with injectors), electric fuel pump and filter, oxygen sensor and installation kit, and a software CD that allows you to custom-program the EFI is you desire (not necessary though, since the built-in ECU features adaptive learning that adjusts itself.

  Hidden under the front and rear “fuel bowls” are a pair of fuel injectors. Another nice touch is the ECU….it’s a mini controller that is actually built onto the right side of the throttle body, so there’s no need to remotely mount a controller. The TPS (throttle position sensor) and IAC (idle air control) are also built-in, so the unit is basically ready to run by simply bolting it onto the manifold in the same manner as installing a conventional carburetor. Oh, the unit also features an already-installed –8 AN feed setup with a pressure regulator (hose ends and fittings are black anodized, contrasting tastefully with the stainless braided hose). Like all EFI systems, an oxygen sensor is required (and included). The ECU features “adaptive learning” programming, which means that it’ll “tune” itself as you drive. For those builders who prefer to create a custom fuel map, software is included in the kit (hook the unit to a PC or laptop and play). A high-pressure electronic fuel pump (also needed with any EFI) is also included. Seriously, this is a very cool setup, and definitely worth considering if you want to step up to an EFI feed while maintaining a traditional carburetor appearance. The installation is the same as installing a carb, and there’s no programming required (but it provides the option of custom programming if you want to mess around with this). In short, it’s the best of both worlds.


The EFI's ECU is a mini controller that is built onto the throttle body, so there's no need to mount a remote controller and associated wiring harness. This is a really cool feature. It just doesn't get any more simple than this.

 


The throttle position sensor is already installed and calibrated.

 


This bottom view shows two injectors hidden inside the "fuel bowl" covers. Each fuel bowl shrouds two injectors, for four injectors total.

 


There's nothing complicated about installing an EFI throttle body. It mounts in the same manner as a carburetor.

 


Just as you would when mounting a carburetor, lightly snug the four mounting fasteners and torque to spec in a criss-cross pattern to avoid base warpage. I used ARP stainless steel bull-nosed studs and hex nuts.

 


The Projection III kit includes an oxygen sensor (required for any EFI system), along with an easy-to-install bung.

 


The O2 sensor bung is radiused to fit onto an exhaust pipe and features female threads to accept the sensor. While you can certainly weld a bung to a pipe, this mount eliminates the need for welding.

 


Simply drill a hole in the exhaust pipe (big enough to allow the sensor to pass through) and mount the bung to the pipe with two worm-drive clamps. The sensor then threads into the bung. A supplied high-temp gasket is placed between the bung and the pipe.

 


Always apply a bit of anti-seize compound to oxygen sensor threads before installation. This eases future removal.

Since running EFI requires a high-pressure electric fuel pump, I installed a black Moroso fuel pump block off plate on the timing cover. Note: If we ever decide to run a traditional carburetor (in this case, about 800 cfm would fill the bill), I really like the race-quality mechanical/hydraulic pump from Race Pumps.


Since we're running EFI, which requires a high pressure electric fuel pump, I installed a Moroso fuel pump blockoff plate on the timing cover's pump boss.

 


If you elect to go with a carburetor instead of EFI, the Stewart Race Pumps billet fuel pump and regulator are pro-quality pieces, applicable to either high performance street or race use.

 


The Race Pump operates hydraulically, with no diaphgrams. This pump is extremely efficient, dependable and long-lasting.

 


The Race Pumps adapter base bolts to the stock fuel pump location with two 3/8" x 18 x 1" bolts (included).

 


Apply a dab of assembly lube to the face of the pump plunger tip prior to installation.

 


The pump mounts to the adapter base with four 3/8" x 18 x 1" bolts and a phenolic spacer between the base and pump (supplied). Since the mounting base of the pump is square and symmetric, this allows you to choose the pump clock position that you prefer. Here I mounted the pump with the inlet/outlet fittings facing up.

 


Prior to creating your plumbing, it's always a good idea to seal any -AN fittings to prevent contamination. Here I installed a pair of -AN caps to both fittings.

  This installs to the engine’s front cover in the stock fuel pump location via an adapter block (provided with the pump). Install the adapter block to the timing cover’s fuel pump boss (with gasket), then install the pump. Be sure to apply high-pressure lube to the pump’s plunger tip before installing. Since the outboard adapter block is square and symmetrical, the pump may be installed in any clock position that suits your application. The pump body is pre-fitted with a –10 AN inlet fitting and a –8 AN outlet fitting (an extra –8 fitting is included if you want to change the inlet size). The pump is P/N1700, specifically for smallblock Ford. Race Pumps’ billet aluminum adjustable fuel pressure regulator (recommended to go along with their pump) is P/N 5011.  The regulator is hard anodized, with all stainless steel internal components and a lightweight ceramic valve. The regulator features one –8 inlet port, two –8 outlet ports and a 1/8” NPT pressure gauge port. By the way, Race Pumps really does a nice job, both in terms of their product design and quality, and their packaging. The pump and the regulator are carefully packaged in black velveteen bags (similar to those used by high-end jewelers) and insulated with soft packing for transport protection. I’ve used these pumps on previous engines, and their performance is outstanding. The pump creates a hydraulic action that delivers fuel in a smooth and consistent manner, perfect for high performance/race applications. Nice stuff.

IGNITION SYSTEM

In this build, I opted for a Duraspark distributor from Performance Distributors, P/N 35720, capable of handling up to 10,000 rpm (I don’t think we’ll twist this puppy that high). The Duraspark unit is intended for those who want a “stock” appearance and is custom calibrated and blueprinted (with regard to camshaft profile, compression ratio, “carb” size, etc.). The center bushing features a full-length bronze oil-impregnated bushing to provide increased durability and to eliminate top-end timing fluctuation.


Performance Distributors' Duraspark distributor, Inferno 2 coil and DynaMod ignition module.

 


Only because I wanted to coordinate colors, I opted to paint the distributor body satin black.


I secured the distributor with an ARP stainless steel bullet-nose stud and 12-point nut (much more convenient than messing with aligning a bolt during any service) and a Summit hold-down clamp.

 


Performance Distributors' Dyna Module and Inferno 2 coil kit for the Duraspark distributor is designed for both street and race applications. The coil and module are matched to the distributor and provide serious spark to allow you to run up to 0.055" spark plug gaps.

  While Performance Distributors offers billet bodies, their Duraspark distributor features an OE-type cast housing, I decided to paint the aluminum housing in a satin black for a subtle, understated look that would compliment our block and intake manifold. For spark plugs, I went with Bosch Super Plus, featuring their premium copper core with Yttrium, P/N 7957. Yttrium is a rare earth material that forms an adhesive oxide layer to minimize wear and protects against high temperatures. This also helps to maintain the electrode gap through the life of the plug. I gapped these plugs at 0.050” (per Performance Distributors recommendation to work with their ignition module/coil kit) and applied a thin coat of anti-seize paste to the threads and installed them to our Trick Flow heads at a torque value of 15 ft-lbs.


I chose Bosch 7957 Super Plus spark plugs for our Trick Flow heads. These plugs feature a premium copper core plus a Yttrium-enhanced center electrode for superior performance.

 


The Trick Flow cylinder heads require a 3/4" reachgasketed spark plug. Always apply a thin coat of anti-seize to spark plug threads prior to installation.

  For plug wires, I had two choices: Performance Distributors’ Livewires or MSD universal-fit (trim to length) wires. The Performance Distributors Livewires feature a blue weave protective sheath and are pre-made, designed to install over the valve covers. These are beautiful pro-looking wires (each wire is labeled for cylinder number and boots feature high temp shrink tube seals as well), but in this case, I wanted to route the wires around the front of the valve cover walls, running horizontally along the outside of the valve covers. I couldn’t find any aftermarket outboard-mount wire loom bracket kits that suited my taste for this particular build, so I fabricated six aluminum L-brackets (using 5/8” wide x 0.125”-thick aluminum stock and painted satin black) that anchor at the front, forward side and center outboard valve cover stud locations. I then attached MSD’s spark plug pro-clamps to the outboard brackets, and Performance Distributors’ aluminum wire looms to the front valve cover studs. My reasoning: the outboard MSD clamps hold each wire securely, while the front-mounted aluminum looms feature larger diameter holes for the wires, allowing easy movement for any future distributor timing-adjustment rotation.


Performance Distributors' LiveWires offer outstanding performance and good looks. However, this set features pre-made wires (already finished to length), designed specifically for over-the-valve-cover routing, which would be great for that style of routing, but I decided to take a wrap-around approach to leave the custom valve covers fully exposed. Personally, I love both Performance Distributors' and MSD's plug wires, but I had to make a choice in this case due to the valve cover issue.

 


The MSD Pro-Clamp wire separators can be used as wire separators only, or can be mounted via mounting holes in the bases.

 


This MSD 8.5mm spark plug wire set features multi-angle spark plug boots, which allow bending to achieve desired angle. Since they're trim-to-length, this allowed me to tailor each wire to optimum length for my particular routing.

 


With the Pro-Clamp bases secured to my mounting brackets, the wires are tucked into the separator channels. In order to cover the bases and wires (for wire security and for appearance), the plastic covers are snapped onto the bases.

 


The snap-on covers provide a finishing touch.

 


In order to mount and secure the wire separators, I simply made aluminum L-brackets that mount to the valve cover studs. The separator base is secured to the bracket with an 8x32x1/2" stainless steel socket head cap screw and nyloc nut (the nut is hidden by the cover).

  Each outboard MSD clamp is secured to its aluminum bracket with an 8x32 x ½” stainless steel socket head cap screw and stainless nyloc nut. The front-mounted aluminum looms are mounted to their brackets with 8x32 x 1” stainless steel socket head cap screws and nyloc nuts. The MSD 8.5mm plug wires feature their multi-angle spark plug boots, which are straight as delivered, but allow you to custom bend the angle to your desired fit. The spark plug boots also feature a nice big raised MSD logo block that provides a nice grip area for removal/installation. I cut each wire to length and installed the kit’s HEI-style distributor terminals using the provided terminal crimping tool (very handy). After applying a smear of dielectric grease to the terminal, a slid each distributor boot into place. The MSD kit also provides handy wire number clips for quick cylinder number identification.


I installed wire number identifiers (included with the wire set) on all plug wires for ease of reference. I also used Performance Distributors aluminum wire separators at the front of the valve covers (mounted to my fabricated brackets). These separators feature passages larger than the 8.5mm wires, allowing easier movement for any future distributor timing adjustment.

 


View of the left side. While a wide range of plug wire routing/looms are available, this setup keeps the wires up and away from header heat and is very simple in nature. It's all personal preference. I realize that there are some very cool billet aluminum loom systems out there, but in this case, I wanted to keep things a bit understated.

 


A view of the right side. I installed these Hedman headers temporarily, mostly for photos. The headers are mounted with ARP 5/16" stainless bolts, using the optional diagonal bolt pattern offered on the Trick Flow heads (the heads also provide in-line 3/8" bolt holes).

 


The plug wires are routed in a wrap-around path, keeping well away from header heat and leaving the custom valve cover treatment unobstructed.

  Our electronic ignition module and coil kit is Performance Distributors’ kit P/N 31721, including their Dyna Mod ignition module and Inferno 2 ignition coil. This may seem basic, but I’ll toss in the Windsor cylinder order and firing order as FYI: CYLINDER ORDER (from front of block) Right side (passenger side): 1-2-3-4 Left side (driver side) : 5-6-7-8 FIRING ORDER 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8 (Note: the 351W distributor rotor rotates counterclockwise when viewed from above)

BREATHING

The air cleaner assembly is a straight-forward chrome steel 14” round unit from Trick Flow. This is secured to the EFI throttle body with a ¼”x20 stud and a blue-anodized  knurled aluminum knob nut from Cam Motion. I like these air cleaner nuts from both an appearance standpoint and their easy serviceability (no tool required). The bottom of the nut features a gripping O-ring that prevents accidental loosening. Cam Motion offers these nuts in both low and tall versions, and in a variety of colors.


I really like these air cleaner nuts from Cam Motion. They are offered in short and tall versions (short seen here), and with either 1/4"x20 or 5/16"x18 female thread sizes (various colors are also offered). These nuts feature an easy-to-grab knurled grip area and a sealing lower O-ring.

 


I kept the air cleaner arrangement simple, with a 14" diameter chrome unit and high-flow element from Trick Flow.

 


For a combination breather and oil-fill location, I installed a billet aluminum breather from Edelbrock.


The PCV is an aluminum dress-up unit from Summit Racing, installed at the rear roof of the right-side valve cover.

 

OIL FILTER AND OIL

For any high performance engine, you should always use an oil that contains enough ZDDP (zinc phosphate) to provide high-pressure lubrication. Everyone should know by now that ZDDP is needed to protect flat tappet camshafts, but even with a roller cam setup, ZDDP should be used to protect other high pressure contact areas such as roller rocker bearings and valve stem tips, especially where high valve spring pressures are present. For this engine’s initial run on an engine dyno, I’ll use a dedicated break-in oil (Gibbs BR in this case). After break-in, a performance engine oil that already contains an adequate level of ZDDP should be used, or the oil of your choice, along with a bottle of ZDDP additive. ZDDP is critical for a flat tappet cam engine, but is also needed even in a roller-cam setup. This is something that many people don’t realize.


Purolator's new line of oil filters offer very efficient filtration and flow.

 


The Purolator filters feature a very tactile textured grip surface, which is very handy for no-slip installation and removal.

 


While I admire Purolator filters from a performance standpoint, I just didn't think that the yellow color would compliment this particular build. Keeping with the somewhat monochromatic theme, I painted this filter satin black. The textured surface made painting a breeze.

 


Our oil dipstick is a flexible unit from Moroso. The bottom adapter threads into the 1/4" NPT port in the oil pan sump kick-out. I anchored the top to the RH cylinder head with a stainless 3/8" bolt.

  Our engine oil filter is from Purolator, their P/N PL30001. This is their new filter that features a course anti-slip grip outer surface, which is very handy for filter installation and removal. However, for some reason, they chose a warm mustard-yellow color for the filter body. Purolator makes outstanding filters (I’ve used them for years for both street and race engines) that do a great job of capturing particulates while allowing optimum flow), but I just couldn’t bear to see a yellow filter on this silver/black engine assembly, so I painted my filter body in a satin black. I hope that this won’t offend the Purolator folks, but I wanted to color-coordinate the build, and in this case, black seemed like a good idea. By the way, due to the rough exterior surface, it was easy to obtain paint adhesion. For a dipstick, I used Moroso’s flexible unit that features a stainless steel braided hose (Teflon lined) and flexible stick topped with a billet aluminum handle. This installed to the ¼” NPT port at the left front area of the Moroso oil pan’s kick-out sump.

OUR PART NUMBERS

DART 351W IRON EAGLE BLOCK…………………31385135 SCAT CRANK 4.00 STROKE…………………………4-351C-4000-6200 SCAT RODS 6.200……………………………………..2-ICR6200-7/16 JE PISTONS AND RINGS  4.125 BORE……………...232474 CLEVITE MAIN BRGS ……………………………….MS-1010HX CLEVITE ROD BRGS …………………………………CB-663 HN VICTOR GASKET SET………………………………..FS3428A VICTOR MLS CYL HEAD GASKETS………………..MLS 54293 FEL PRO INTAKE GASKETS…………………………1262R (size needed for our Trick Flow heads) LUNATI ROLLER CAMSHAFT……………………….51012  RRN1-232-242 LUNATI ROLLER LIFTERS………………………..…72335LUN RACE PUMPS FUEL PUMP…………………………. 1700 (if carb is used) RACE PUMPS REGULATOR …………………………5011(if carb is used) PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS ELECT. FUEL PUMP..           (for EFI) PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS FUEL REGULATOR…           (for EFI) MOROSO OIL PAN…………………………………….18507 MOROSO VALVE COVERS…………………………..68450 MOROSO OIL PUMP PICKUP………………………...24507 ARP OIL PUMP SHAFT………………………….....154-7901 ARP FASTENERS                                              Head studs……………..….254-4703                                              Intake manifold…………...454-2103                                              Oil pan studs……………...454-1904                                              Balancer bolt……………...150-2501                                              Alternator bracket bolt……450-3301                                              Valve cover studs…………400-7614                                              Distributor stud…………....450-1701                                              Cam bolt……………..……155-1001 TOTALLY STAINLESS FASTENERS                                               Intake manifold……………6-0838                                               Fuel pump (mech)…………6-0596                                               Distributor bolt…………….6-0512                                               Balancer bolt kit…………...6-0725                                               Valve cover bolt kit………..6-0542                                               Oil pan bolt kit…………….6-0572 Note: Both ARP and Totally Stainless offer great fastener kits for this application. TRICK FLOW CYLINDER HEADS……………………TFS-5170T012-C01 MELLING OIL PUMP…………………………………..10833 MELLING TIMING SET……………………………..…40402 MEZIERE WATER PUMP………………………………WP311B MEZIERE WATER NECK…………………………..….WN0023B SILVER SEAL TIMING COVER……………………….TW6600 PRW 6.5” RACE DAMPER……………………………..2430203 PRW FLEXPLATE………………………………………1830213   (157 TOOTH) PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS HURRICANE INTAKE….54032 PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS POWERJECTION III EFI .70027 PERFORMANCE DISTRIBUTORS DIST………………35720 DURASPARK PERF DIST PLUG WIRES……………………………….C9059 LIVEWIRES (Blue, 135 deg. boots. Pre-made, designed for over-valve cover routing) (while I used trim-to-fit wires to achieve my wrap-around routing, the Livewires are an excellent option if you prefer over-the-valve-cover wire routing) PERF DIST MODULE/COIL KIT……………………….31721 FOR DURASPARK PERF DIST BILLET LOOMS…………………………....9100 MSD SPARK PLUG WIRES (Multi-angle HEI)…………31189 MSD PRO-CLAMP WIRE SEPARATORS………………8843 HARLAND SHARP ROLLER ROCKERS (OFFSET)…..S4202 LUNATI PUSHRODS 5/16X.083X7.700……………..….82135 PRO SERIES EDELBROCK BILLET BREATHER……………………4213 SUMMIT PCV……………………………………………SUM-440308 BOSCH SPARK PLUGS…………………………………7957 Super Plus ROYAL PURPLE MAX TUFF ASSEMBLY LUBE……….01335 ARP MOLY THREAD LUBRICANT………………………100-9905 ARP 4.125” PISTON RING COMPRESSOR……………….900-1250 VALCO ALUMINUM RTV…………………………………71195 JOE GIBBS BREAK-IN ENGINE OIL (W/ZDDP)…………BR PUROLATOR OIL FILTER…………………………………PL30001

 

 

OUR FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

 

MAIN CAP TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Dart specifies the following torque values for their main cap bolts… (Note: all torque values listed are based on the use of oil on threads and bolt head undersides) INBOARD ½”-DIA BOLTS………………………………….105 ft-lbs (w/oil) OUTBOARD 7/16” SPLAYED BOLTS AT CAPS 2-3-4…… 65 ft-lbs (w/oil) OUTBOARD 3/8” BOLTS AT CAPS 1 & 5…………………. 35 ft-lbs (w/oil) (Note: with all cap bolts in place, tighten the ½”-dia bolts first, followed by the 7/16” outboard splayed bolts, followed by the 3/8” outboard bolts) CONNECTING ROD BOLT TORQUE ARP 7/16” 8740 ROD BOLTS………………………………..63 ft-lbs (w/moly) (or tighten by monitoring bolt stretch…. 0.004 – 0.005” ….0.005” max) CAMSHAFT SPROCKET BOLT ARP 155-1001…………....45 ft-lbs CAMSHAFT RETAINER PLATE BOLTS……………………9-12 ft-lbs OIL PUMP TO BLOCK 3/8” BOLTS………………………….25 ft-lbs OIL PUMP PICKUP  5/16”X 18 BOLTS………………………18 ft-lbs OIL PAN NUTS………………………………………..………12-15 ft-lbs DAMPER BOLT ARP 150-2501………………………………80 ft-lbs (OE spec) CYLINDER HEAD STUDS ARP 254-4703 Studs to block……………………………………….finger-tight plus @ 8-10 ft-lb preload Nuts to studs (in 3 steps)..……………………………………...45, 75, 105 ft-lbs ROCKER ARM STUDS (7/16”) TO HEADS…………………45 ft-lbs (intake locations require thread sealer) FLEXPLATE……………………..……………………………..85 ft-lbs (OE spec) TIMING COVER TO BLOCK….………………………….…..18 – 20 ft-lbs WATER PUMP TO TIMING COVER.…………………….…..18 – 20 ft-lbs INTAKE MANIFOLD………………………….10 ft-lbs initial on all bolts, followed by 15 ft-lbs on all bolts. Finally, 25 ft-lbs on only the center eight bolts. These are the specs provided by Professional Products, for their Hurricane manifold. VALVE COVERS …………….………………………….……………………100 in-lbs (I used ¼”x20 ARP stainless bullet-nosed studs and 12-point nuts) THROTTLE BODY (OR CARB) TO MANIFOLD…………….80 in-lbs SPARK PLUGS (w/moly)……………………………………….15-18 ft-lbs


Right side view. By the way, all of our project builds are test-fitted and final assembled on Goodson's way-cool engine carts, which are great mobile work stations.

 


Left side view.

 


The black wrinkle-finish valve covers add a nice touch.

 


Overhead view.

 


Overhead view without air cleaner. The EFI throttle body provides a nice big gulp.

The smoothed-out Dart block resembles a silver piece of glass. Granted, this visual treatment is too much trouble for a race block, but very tasty for a street rod application.

Just for the heck of it, I rotated the engine for this shot just to make the black Moroso kick-out pan more easily seen.

 


Front view. The Meziere water pump provides a tasteful splash of color.

 


Why is this guy smiling? Builder/author Mike Mavrigian knows it's finally time to play on the dyno.

 

PARTICIPATING MANUFACTURER DIRECTORY

Thanks to all of the following for their participation in this project. ARP 1863 Eastman Ave. Ventura, CA 93003 805-339-2200 www.arp-bolts.com BIRCHWOOD AUTOMOTIVE GROUP 10205 Wooster Pike Rd. Creston, OH 44217-2221 330-435-6347 www.birchwoodautomotive.com BOSCH MOTORSPORTS 2800 S. 25th Ave. Broadview, IL 60155 919-846-2115 www.boschusa.com CAM MOTION 2092 Dallas Dr. Baton Rouge, LA 70806 225-926-6110 www.cammotion.com DART MACHINERY 353 Oliver Dr. Troy, MI 48084 248-362-1188 www.dartheads.com FALL AUTOMOTIVE MACHINE 3519 Jackman Rd. Toledo, OH 43612 419-473-1557 FRAGOLA PERFORMANCE SYSTEMS 888 West Queen St. Southington, CT 06489 866-337-2739 www.fragolaperformancesystems.com GEARHEAD TOOLS (TM MACHINE PRODUCTS) 24773 Avenue Rockefeller Valencia, CA 91355 800-733-4463 www.GearHeadTools.com GOODSON TOOLS & SUPPLIES 156 Galewski Dr. Winona, MN 55987 800-533-8010 www.goodson.com GREBER POWDERCOATING 313 Clark St. Elyria, OH 44035-6105 440-322-3685 e-mail: gmt313@yahoo.com GRESSMAN POWERSPORTS 904 Lime St. Fremont, OH 43420 419-355-8980 www.gressmanpowersports.com HARLAND SHARP 19769 Progress Dr. Strongsville, OH 44149 440-238-3260 www.harlandsharp.com INNOVATORS WEST 1800 E. 4th Ave. Hutchinson, KS 67501 800-816-2393 www.innovators.bz JE PISTONS 15312 Connector Lane Huntington Beach, CA 92649 714-898-9763 www.jepistons.com LISTA INTERNATIONAL CORP. 106 Lowland St. Holliston, MA 01746 800-722-3020 www.listaintl.com LOCK-IN-TOOL 2511 Providence Rd. South Waxhaw, NC 28173 www.lockintool.com LUNATI 11126 Willow Ridge Dr. Olive Branch, MS 38654-4013 662-892-1500 www.lunaticamshafts.com MAC TOOLS 505 N. Cleveland Ave. Suite 200 Westerville, OH 43082 800-622-8665 www.mactools.com MAHLE CLEVITE 1350 Eisenhower Place Ann Arbor, MI 48108-3282 800-338-8786 www.mahleclevite.com MEDINA MOUNTAIN MOTORS 199 Factory St. Creston, OH 44217 866-218-7467 www.medinamountainmotors.com MELLING SELECT PERFORMANCE PO Box 1188 Jackson, MI 49204 517-787-8172 www.melling.com MEZIERE ENTERPRISES 220 South Hale Ave. Escondido, CA 92029-1719 800-208-1755 www.meziere.com MOROSO PERFORMANCE PRODUCTS 80 Carter Dr. Guilford, CT 06437 203-453-6571 www.moroso.com MSD IGNITION 1490 Henry Brennan Dr. El Paso, TX 79936-6805 915-857-5200 www.msdignition.com PERFORMANCE DISTRIBUTORS 2699 Barries Dr. Memphis, TN 38132 901-396-5782 www.performancedistributors.com PROFESSIONAL PRODUCTS 12705 S. Van Ness Ave. Hawthorne, CA 90250 323-779-2020 www.professional-products.com PRW INDUSTRIES 193 West Orangethorpe Ave. Placentia, CA 92870 714-792-1000 www.prw-usa.com PUROLATOR AUTO FILTERS 3200 Natal St. Fayettville, NC 28306 800-526-4250 www.purolatorautofilters.net RACE PUMPS 222 Hillcrest Dr. High Point, NC 27262 336-476-9720 www.racepumps.com ROYAL PURPLE, LTD 1 Royal Purple Lane Porter, TX 77365 888-382-6300 www.royalpurple.com SCAT ENTERPRISES 1400 Kingsdale Ave. Redondo Beach, CA 90278-3983 310-370-5501 www.scatcrankshafts.com SILVER SEAL PRODUCTS CO. PO Box 1050 Trenton, MI 48183-1050 734-479-2255 www.silver-seal.com SUMMIT RACING PO Box 909 Akron, OH 44398-6177 800-230-3030 www.summitracing.com TOTALLY STAINLESS PO Box 3249 Gettysburg, PA 17325 800-767-4781 www.totallystainless.com TRICK FLOW SPECIALTIES 1248 Southeast Ave. Tallmadge, OH 44278 330-630-1555 www.trickflow.com VALCO CINCINNATI 411 Circle Freeway Dr. Cincinnati, OH 45246 800-788-3865 www.valco-cp.com

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